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Port town

Skagway, Alaska

By Reviewed by Marin HollowayUpdated 9 min readLast fact checked on .

Skagway is a preserved gold rush town of about 1,100 residents at the head of the Lynn Canal, and it exists for one reason: in 1897 it was the gateway to the Klondike. The White Pass and Yukon Route railway, built through the mountains in 1898 and 1899, is the finest single excursion in Alaska and the reason most people come here. The town itself is small, flat and entirely walkable.

The short answer

Skagway is a preserved 1898 gold rush town at the northern end of the Inside Passage. Its defining attraction is the White Pass and Yukon Route railway, a narrow gauge line climbing nearly 3,000 feet in 20 miles through tunnels and over trestles. Ships berth within a short walk of the historic centre and typically stay eight to twelve hours.

Key points

  • The White Pass and Yukon Route railway is the standout excursion in Alaska, climbing 2,865 feet in 20 miles.
  • The town is a preserved gold rush streetscape managed in part by the National Park Service.
  • Population around 1,100, and up to 10,000 cruise passengers on a peak day.
  • The gateway to the Yukon by road over the White Pass, roughly 90 minutes to the Canadian border.
  • Drier and sunnier than Juneau or Ketchikan because it sits in a rain shadow.

Quick facts

Region
Alaska, United States
Typical time here
8 to 12 hours, commonly 7:00 am to 8:00 pm
Population
Around 1,100
Best months
June, July, August
Wildlife
Bald eagleBlack bearMountain goatArctic ground squirrelHarbor seal

What Skagway is actually like

Skagway sits at the head of a long fjord, hemmed in by mountains on three sides, at the start of the shortest route from tidewater to the Klondike goldfields. In the summer of 1897 the population went from a handful to more than 8,000 in a matter of months. Almost everyone who arrived was heading for the passes: the White Pass out of Skagway, or the Chilkoot Trail out of neighbouring Dyea.

What remains is unusually intact. Roughly a dozen blocks of Broadway carry restored false front buildings from that period, and the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park maintains several of them. Some of it is genuinely historic and some of it is a jewellery shop behind a historic facade, which is worth knowing before you form an opinion.

Geographically Skagway is a rain shadow town. Where Ketchikan gets 140 inches of rain, Skagway gets around 26. It is meaningfully drier and sunnier than the rest of the Southeast circuit, which makes it the port where an outdoor plan is most likely to work.

Railway summit

2,865 ft

Reached in 20 miles from sea level

Annual rainfall

~26 in

A fifth of Ketchikan

Year round population

~1,100

Swelling many times over on a peak cruise day

Distance to Canada border

~15 miles

Roughly 40 minutes by road

Top attractions in Skagway

White Pass and Yukon Route railway

A three foot narrow gauge railway built between 1898 and 1900 to carry prospectors and freight over the White Pass. The standard excursion runs 20 miles from the dock to White Pass Summit and back, climbing 2,865 feet through two tunnels, over a steel cantilever bridge and along cliff ledges cut by hand. It takes about three hours return.

It is designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, and it is the excursion we would recommend above any other single activity in Alaska. The engineering is remarkable, the scenery is genuinely dramatic, and it is entirely weather proof.

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park

A National Park Service visitor centre in the restored 1898 railroad depot, plus several restored buildings on Broadway. Free, well presented, and about forty five minutes. Ranger led walking tours of the historic district run several times a day in season and are the best free thing in town.

The Yukon by road

The Klondike Highway climbs the White Pass and reaches the Canadian border in about forty minutes, continuing to Carcross and toward Whitehorse. Bus and small van tours run to Emerald Lake, Carcross Desert and the Yukon Suspension Bridge. A passport is required, and this is a genuine international border crossing.

Chilkoot Trail and Dyea

Dyea, nine miles from Skagway, was the rival town at the foot of the Chilkoot Trail. Almost nothing remains except a cemetery and clearings in the trees, which is itself striking. Day hikes on the lower Chilkoot Trail are possible from a cruise ship, typically the first two to four miles.

Broadway and the Red Onion Saloon

Broadway is four blocks of boardwalk and false fronts. The Red Onion Saloon was a 1898 brothel and now runs short tours of the upstairs rooms alongside a bar. It is touristy and it is also genuinely the building it claims to be.

Wildlife around Skagway

Skagway is the weakest of the main ports for wildlife, and it is important to set expectations accordingly. There is no whale watching industry here of the kind Juneau or Icy Strait Point supports, because the Lynn Canal is deep and the feeding grounds are elsewhere.

Wildlife sighting likelihood in Skagway
SpeciesWhereLikelihoodNotes
Bald eagleWaterfront and river valleysHighVery high near the Chilkat area to the south
Mountain goatCliffs above the railwayModerateLook up during the White Pass climb
Black bearDyea road, Klondike HighwayLow to moderateMost often seen from a vehicle
Arctic ground squirrelWhite Pass summit areaHighAbundant at the summit stop
Harbor sealHarbour areaModerate

How to plan a Skagway port day

Skagway typically gives you a long call, often ten to twelve hours, which is enough to do the railway and still have half a day. That makes it the easiest port to plan.

  1. Step 1

    Book the railway, and book it early

    The White Pass railway sells out on busy days. Book the morning departure so the afternoon is free, and note that some departures leave from the dock and others from the depot in town.

  2. Step 2

    Decide whether to add the Yukon

    Rail plus a bus return from Fraser through the Yukon is a popular combination and takes about six hours. It requires a passport. If you do not have one with you, do not book it.

  3. Step 3

    Walk Broadway and the park visitor centre in the afternoon

    Ninety minutes covers the historic district properly, especially if you join a ranger led walk.

  4. Step 4

    Consider Dyea if you have twelve hours

    The drive out along the Taiya River is beautiful and the Slide Cemetery is a genuinely affecting stop. It suits travellers who have done the railway before.

Best time to visit Skagway

Skagway month by month
MonthTypical highNotes
May57°F / 14°CSnow still on the pass, dramatic scenery, cool at the summit
June65°F / 18°CLong days, wildflowers, reliable weather
July68°F / 20°CWarmest and busiest. Broadway is genuinely crowded
August66°F / 19°CStill warm, slightly wetter, fewer ships late in the month
September58°F / 14°CAutumn colour on the pass, fewest passengers, first snow possible at the summit

Skagway is the port where late season works best. September on the White Pass, with autumn colour on the tundra and fresh snow above, is arguably better than July, and the town is far quieter.

Photography tips for Skagway

  • Use the open platforms on the train. Every carriage has vestibules with open air access between cars. Glass reflections ruin most railway photographs, so step outside.
  • Shoot Bridal Veil Falls and the steel bridge on the way up. Both come on the left side ascending, and the light is better in the morning.
  • Broadway is best early. Get out at 7:30 am before the crowds and the false fronts photograph cleanly with long shadows down the street.
  • The summit is a different climate. Expect wind, possible snow into June, and much colder air than the town. Protect the camera and bring gloves.
  • Include the mountains for scale in town shots. Skagway photographed flat looks like a small town. Frame the peaks behind Broadway and it looks like what it is.
  • Watch for mountain goats above the tracks. They appear as white dots on grey rock, so a 300mm lens or longer is needed to make anything of them.

Excursions and prices

ExcursionDurationTypical priceEffortNotes
White Pass Summit rail excursion3 to 3.5 hours$130 to $185EasyThe best single excursion in Alaska. Book early, sit on the left going up.
Rail and Yukon bus combination6 to 7 hours$220 to $310EasyPassport required. Train one way, bus the other, with Yukon stops.
Yukon and Emerald Lake bus tour5 to 7 hours$150 to $240EasyPassport required. Carcross Desert and Emerald Lake are the highlights.
Klondike Gold Rush park ranger walk45 to 60 minutesFreeEasyDeparts from the visitor centre several times daily in season.
Chilkoot Trail day hike4 to 6 hours$140 to $210ActiveThe lower trail only. Wet, rooty and genuinely strenuous in places.
Dyea and Slide Cemetery tour3 hours$80 to $130EasyQuiet, historical and rarely crowded. Good second visit choice.
Glacier Point wilderness safari6 to 7 hours$280 to $380ActiveBoat, coach and canoe to a glacier face. One of the better full day options.
Skagway by bike down the Klondike Highway3 hours$120 to $170ActiveMostly downhill from the summit. Cold at the top even in July.
Prices are typical per person ranges across ship and independent operators, rechecked before each season. They are planning figures, not quotes.

Frequently asked questions

Is the White Pass railway worth it?
Yes. It is the excursion we would keep above any other in Alaska. A narrow gauge railway hand built in 1898 and 1899, climbing 2,865 feet in twenty miles through tunnels and across trestles, with genuinely dramatic scenery and no dependence on weather or wildlife. It costs roughly $130 to $185 and takes about three hours.
Do I need a passport in Skagway?
Only if you take a tour that crosses into Canada, which includes the Yukon bus tours and the rail plus bus combinations that return through Fraser. A straightforward round trip on the railway to White Pass Summit and back stays on the United States side and does not require you to carry a passport, though the train does pass close to the border. See passport requirements for detail.
How big is Skagway and can I walk it?
Very small and entirely walkable. The historic district is about six blocks by four, and the cruise berths are a five to fifteen minute walk from Broadway depending on which dock you use. You do not need transport within the town.
What is there to do in Skagway besides the train?
The Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park visitor centre and ranger walks, the Broadway historic district, the Red Onion Saloon tour, day hikes on the lower Chilkoot Trail, and the drive out to Dyea. There are also Yukon bus tours, glacier point excursions and cycling trips down the Klondike Highway.
Is Skagway good for whale watching?
No. Skagway sits at the head of a deep fjord away from the main feeding grounds and has no significant whale watching industry. Save whale watching for Juneau or Icy Strait Point and use Skagway for history and mountain landscape.
How crowded does Skagway get?
A town of 1,100 people can receive close to 10,000 cruise passengers in a single day at peak season. Broadway between 10:00 am and 3:00 pm is genuinely congested. Going ashore before 8:30 am, or spending the middle of the day on the railway or in the Yukon, avoids most of it.

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